A season in Myoko – a seasonal guide to accomodation and work

You’d like to spend a winter in Myoko, you know nothing but would like to be somewhat informed.

I’ve been asked a few times about wanting to spend a winter in Myoko, there’s a few things which I think that many people tend to think it’s like where they’re from abroad, but Japan is quite different especially due to the heavy snow conditions and cultural aspects of the area.

Myoko area

When I first came to Myoko, it was a bit tricky to understand the area and it’s geography. The best thing to do is to either come here on a holiday, to get your bearings or to look on google maps.

The Myoko area is in Niigata prefecture, we’re very close 45 mins drive, less than an hour local train to Nagano city, in Nagano prefecture. So the access with the shikansen, bullet train or a longer bus to Tokyo is fairly accessible.

Myoko Kogen, which you often hear has been utilised by people in the area from abroad, but is in fact the train station, and it’s area. This is also where the small supermarket is too.

The 4 main ski fields are Suginohara, by Suginosawa village. Ikenotaira, now rebranded to Alpen Blick resort, by Ikenotaira area. Akakura Kanko ski field, by Shin Akakura and connected to Akakura Onsen ski field and the village.

Akakura Onsen is the main area where there are a few bars, restaurants, accomodation, hotels and where I also teach yoga in winter at Hotel Alp Myoko.

Lotte Arai, is closer to Joetsu Myoko station, but not really that close and requires a 20 mins drive from the 4 ski field area around Akakura Onsen.

Madarao is on the other side of the valley, Tangram is a little closer to Myoko Kogen station, but requires a shuttle, taxi or to drive to access, this area is a mixture of Niigata and Nagano prefecture (state).

Accomodation

If you’re looking for a house share, hostel, as you are able to work remote or online work. You will have to ask around to get accomodation, that’s either affordable or available. Especially in the main village area of Akakura Onsen, if you like to go out and drink.

This is because the area of Myoko by the ski resorts, is incredibly seasonal. Businesses make money in a very short amount of time and mainly in winter.

Unlike places like Queenstown, Wanaka (New Zealand) or Jindabyne (Australia), where there is no snow, it is more like France where staff have accomodation and everyone else is considered a guest.

Why?

Well because it snows a lot, if you don’t clear the snow, it can damage a property, to the point where the roof will fall and the house will be ruined. Yes it snows that much sometimes.

The snow also needs to be tidied, so that you don’t put it on your neighbours’ land and it does require certain amount of skill, knowledge and looking after.

If you’re from somewhere which doesn’t snow, it’s unlikely someone will be willing to rent you a house, or room, as there is an understanding that you’ll need to be helped by the owner / caretaker of the property.

Pipes can also freeze, as many homes in Japan, seem to be made of paper due if the property is more than 30 years old and the complexities of Japanese society, economics which I won’t bother going into here.

So unless you’re willing to shovel snow, spend money to keep the house warm with heating and look after yourself. You will be charged guest prices for accomodation that is comfortable.

Or you’ll be offered a place away from the main areas, which requires you to drive, hire a car,

Or your best bet is to work for a company, or a lodge which will find you accomodation. Although prices of everything has risen.

Prices for accomodation for staff is usually ¥30,000 for a shared room, sometimes a private room if you’re lucky, in a sharehouse.

Again a reminder that these prices can change, while also the cost of heating and electricity has gone up.

If you’re looking to spend a few months during the season, you have an income elsewhere, I would recommend to get in touch early on places like facebook groups for the area you want to visit, and ask around.

You might be lucky and find someone who needs to fill their lodge or house before it becomes operational. It’s not what you know which will help in these secluded mountain type environments its who you know.

Wages 

Although there’s been talks of wages going up to ¥1,000, in certain prefectures (states) Niigata prefecture’s minimum wage is as of October 2023 ¥931.

If you’re from abroad, especially Australia and are used to higher wages. Unless you speak a good level of Japanese, it is unlikely that you can expect the same wages as Australia or abroad. If you work for a Japanese company, you would also expected to work three times harder for three times less pay than you’re used to.

Of course everything is always a negotiation, if you feel like you are offering a lot by working for your employer, make sure to highlight your skills in order to show you’re a good investment to have a better wage.

Remember you’re providing a service for a business, you should be compensated in a way which works for you too, even if you don’t speak the language or understand the Japanese culture.

Visa

You can work if you have a working holiday visa and have applied by the age of under 31 years old.

Otherwise you will need a sponsored visa, which requires an immigration lawyer unless you’d like to do this yourself or your company is willing to do so.

English teaching is the easiest way to be offered a visa, if you have a degree.

Or if you have 6 + years experience (years in a row, not seasonal years). Jobs which are very in demand are chefs, qualified ski instructors.

Holiday visa can be for up to 3 months.

The above also depends on which country you’re from, unfortunately some countries are given privileges over others.

Transport

Hiring a car or investing in a car is the best way to travel. You can use public transport, try to hitchhike, if you don’t mind that and take your time.

The taxis do exist, but at peak times, weekends, Japanese bank holidays, mornings, it can be tricky to book and needs to be done in advance.

Hiring a car is the easiest if you’re not a registered resident in Japan.

There are options to rent cars for longer term, a month or more at a time, you’ll have to find this in advance before winter starts.

While also make sure its a 4WD car, any type of car, with snow tyres, it makes a huge difference.

Japan

In winter you’ll be offered many services all with the easy of english speaking.

However a reminder that you are in Japan, there is a particular way to act, to be respectful of those around you.

While also there are many frustrating parts of Japan, especially when you don’t speak the language.

People are very polite, they’ll try to help the best they can.

There are things which just are ancient like the banks here and just certain things in the countryside where it seems to stuck in the 1980s.

If you have travelled a lot abroad, you’ll understand this, if you’re set in your ways and expect things to be like they are back home, you’ll be in for quite the culture shock.

The best thing to do is to be patient in Japan.

In conclusion

If you’re wanting to work a winter in Myoko, you have worked in hospitality before, you’ll find somewhere to work. Make sure its somewhere which you like the working environment, ask a lot of questions. If you’ve never done a winter season before. Realise that it is a very short time, 2.5 – 3 months, but it is very intense.

If you’re wanting to work remotely, or have saved up to spend the winter in Myoko. Try to get in touch with as many people as you can, put a picture up of your face, what you look like, what you’re like and see if someone has a spot for you to live for the winter.

If you’d like to just enjoy to snowboard or ski, expect to pay guest prices or if you’re on a budget, see if you can help out with snow clearing or to caretake for a property.

Good luck and I hope you have a wonderful winter.